Col des Fours to Rifugio Elisabetta
In this series of posts, we will tell our story of our Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) day by day.
This post is the day 3 where we will hike the alternate route from Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta using Col des Fours’ trail. In addition, we added by mistakes a visit to Tête Nord des Fours, a gorgeous summit.
If you are looking for a complete guide, you can read our full 1/2 TMB guide.
We hiked it, end of June.
Table of Contents
Mapping the day: Col des Fours to Rifugio Elisabetta
TMB Col des Fours to Rifugio Elisabetta
Refuge de la Croix du bonhomme to Col des Fours
We woke up around 6am with a stunning view of the alps. Then packed our gears and headed to the refuges to get breakfast and use the bathroom. By 7:30am we departed for the Col des Fours. The trail is located right behind the refuge.
We opted for this option as we had plan to ride a bus from Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets and then combine 2 stages but late June the buses are not running. So, the alternate route is much nicer than the regular one.
The trail is not too hard, it was a bit snowy bit nothing too crazy. By 8ish we were there.
On the alternate trail, we were altogether 10 this day. A group of 6 and 2 people from the refuge going somewhere at a crazy paste.
Tête Nord des Fours
We kept on and by mistakes we ended in the Tête Nord (2756m). The alternate trail is not really that well marked.
From Col des Fours, you cannot miss the Tête Nord as a big platform stand on it. Just follow it up. This spot was one of our favourites in the TMB.
Here, it was only us, it was amazing and breath-taking. Then we headed back to Col des Fours using the same way we came in.
Col des Fours to La Ville des Glaciers/Refuge Mottets
From Col des fours, in late June the way down is fully covered in snow. It was a fun hike down. Tina was sliding and almost skiing down. It wasn’t too hard, and no crampons were needed.
Once out of the snow, we followed the left edges of a melted snow river down to the valley. At this point, there was another trail to be taken but it could not be reached. As there were no sign, we were not sure we were on the right track following the river.
By 11am we were down in the valley at the small Chapelle (ruins). After that it was a nice path down to the refuge.
We wanted to shortcut the trail by not following the road (made for car) and ended up past the bridges at Ville des Glacier where we were supposed to join the official route.
We decided to keep on this side of the river, but it was not the best idea. Not that the trail was much harder, but it was longer to reach Les Mottets.
Refuge Les Mottets to Col de la Seigne
We took our lunch break at Refuge Les Mottets, dried our tents, filled our water, and left around 12:45pm for the Col de Seigne (Border with Italy).
At this time, it became a bit challenging going up as today stats are:
- Col de la Croix du bonhomme (2412m) to Tête Nords des fours (2756) to La Ville des Glaciers (1700m)
- Refuge des Mottets (1864m) to Col de Seigne (2516m) to Rifugio Elisabetta (2195m)
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With over 996m ascent and 1377m descent, it can be a long day.Â
Col de la Seigne to Rifugio Elisabetta
From there down to Rifugio Elisabetta, it was a super enjoyable trek. Once a bit down and out of the snow, the trail is a slow downhill route through a stunning valley. Home to lots of Marmot, we took some break, avoided any sound, and got surrounded by marmots 😊
Rifugio Elisabetta
As wild camping is strictly prohibited in Italy, we ended up staying in the Rifugio Elisabetta. We arrived around 5pm and asked if they still had room available. There was still dorm of 4 (48€ half board) or room of 2 (62€ half board) free. As the refuge preferred that we stay in a room of 2 (easier cleaning due to Covid), we took it.
You must take the half board option. That is the only one available. We asked for vegetarian and it was fine.
Shower was an additional 2€. There was 2 separated bathroom Men/Women upstairs with 2WCs each and 1 shower. Plus, a mixed one downstairs with 2 WCs and 2 Showers. There is toilet paper but no soap.
Dinner was simple but yummy. A small toast with cheese (and dry meat) as appetizer, risotto, then Potatoes with green beans and meat or cheese (veggie option), dessert was a chocolate flan.
In the shelter, we were with the group of 6 French people that did the alternate route like us (they were 3 old couples), a couple of French/Chilean, a Polish family of 3, that we met many time on the route, two old Italian guy, one of them knowing more about history on our countries than us and another group of 3.
Breakfast was also simple, with coffee or tea and a bunch of jams, chocolates pastes with breads and biscuits.
Anecdote
Based on the weather forecast, our journey from Col des la Croix du Bonhomme to Col des Fours to Rifugio Elisabetta, it should have been with rain from early afternoon till the next day. In the end, a heavy storm started around 7pm. In the morning the sky was clear again and perfect for hiking. We felt really happy to be in the refuge this night.
“Although I deeply love oceans, deserts, and other wild landscapes, it is only mountains that beckon me with that sort of painful magnetic pull to walk deeper and deeper into their beauty.” – Victoria Erikson.
