Introduction
Table of Contents
About the TMB
Introduction
Le Tour du Mont Blanc is one of the most spectacular trails in the world. The trail consists of 11 stages and over 10 variants. Along the way hikers can chose which option they prefer. Its route passes through beautiful valleys, adorable hamlets, charming landscapes, rugged mountains, crystal clear rivers and white snow.
The official stages
Likewise, you can hike the TMB can both clockwise and anti-clockwise. However, hikers traditionally do it anti-clockwise and start off in Les Houches (France). Just a few people chose the clockwise option and would start in Champex (Switzerland)
- Stage 1:Les Houches to Les Contamines
- Stage 2:Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
- Stage 3:Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta
- Stage 4:Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
- Stage 5:Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
- Stage 6:Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
- Stage 7:La Fouly to Champex
- Stage 8:Champex to Col de la Forclaz
- Stage 9:Col de la Forclaz to Tre-le-Champ
- Stage 10:Tre-le-Champ to Refuge La Flegere
- Stage 11:Refuge La Flegere to Les Houches
Weather
To be honest, mountain weather is unpredictable, and changeable. Most of the weather apps and news will not be too reliable in advance. To clarify, we hiked it end of June, and all the days were sunny, with only one rainy night. While our weather forecast was different.
We also were on the TMB in Mid-July and it was super sunny and event oo hot. As well as end of August/Beginning September and we had to stop as it was raining for 4 days without a break.
Best time to Hike
- Mid-June is a great time to hike the TMB as the trail will be almost empty. But you will have to deal with snow-covered section on the trail or won’t be able to use the variant you wanted to.
- End-June is probably the best time to be on the TMB. Most of the snow is already melted and what’s left is trekkable. Plus, the crowd will not yet be there. And you will not need to organise everything in advance. (That is the time we chose)
- Mid-July and August is the busiest time on the trek but also the one where the trail will be fully available.
- September will again be less crowded. But the weather will also become colder and with higher chances of rain.
In the end we have been on the TMB End of June, Mid-July, end August/Beginning September. For us the time to go now is end of June. The weather should already be sunny, yet not too hot. And it won’t be crowded.
How difficult is the TMB
Food & Water
The money stuff
In short, in towns most of the places accept credit card but up in the mountains cash will be the only mean of payment. Be sure that you carry enough of it with you. Meanwhile, in Italy and France the currency is EURO. Switzerland uses the Swiss Francs but often accepts euros.
Wild Camping
Wild Camping is not recommended at all and often prohibited:
- In Italy, wild camping is strictly prohibited and you should avoid doing it. The local authorities and people do not joke with it. Italian law says: free camping is forbidden (allowed only above 2.500 m from sunset to dawn)
- In Switzerland, it is the same, wild camping is simply and strictly prohibited. And people would denounce you to the authorities.
- In France, it is another story. And you can wild camp without too much trouble. As the local law says ‘free camping is allowed only at high altitude between sunset and sunrise’. But without clear altitude.
The tour du Mont blanc
Introduction
The official start of the TMB is in “Les Houches” in France. We started from there and finished there.
Along the way, we used some variants when it was possible, and in the end our hike was like that:
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Overview
- Day 1: Les Houches – Col de Voza – Bionnassay – Champel – Tresse – Les Contamines-Montjoie
- Day 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie – Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge – Nant Borrant – La Balme – Col du Bonhomme – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
- Day 3: Col des Fours – Tête Nord – La Ville des Glaciers – Mottets – Col de la Seigne – la Casermetta – Refuge Elisabetta
- Day 4: Refuge Elisabetta – Lac Combal – Arp-Vieille supérieure – Lac Chécrouit – Col Chécrouit – Plan Chécrouit – Dolonne – Courmayeur
- Day 5: Courmayeur – Rifugio Bertone – Rifugio Bonatti
- Day 6: Rifugio Bonatti – Chalet Val Ferret – Rifugio Elena – Grand Col Ferret – La Peule – Val Ferret – La Fouly
- Day 7: La Fouly – Saleinaz – Champex
- Day 8: Champex – Plan de l’Au – Bovine – Trient – Le Peuty
- Day 9: Le Peuty – Col de Balme – Aiguillette des Posettes – Tre-le-champ
- Day 10: Tre-le-champ – Lac de Cheresys – Lac Blanc – La Flégère
- Day 11: La Flégère – PlanPraz- Brévent – Col de Brévent – Les Houches
Day by Day
Day 1: Les Houches - Les Contamines
To begin with it is possible to arrive in Les Houches in the morning and start hiking the TMB around 11am. You will have you enough time to do it. We left around 5am by car and arrived around 11am in Les Houches.
You can park your car in the official parking located behind the cable car station of “Le Prarion”. It is a free parking spot located at “31 Chemin du Verney du Fouilly, 74310 Les Houches”. Once you are there, you will see a sign “TMB parking”. Follow it until you see the end of the road. (do not park near the cable car station)
And If you arrive from Chamonix, there are free shuttle buses to Les Houches.
Otherwise, it might be a good idea to consider arriving one day earlier and stay overnight in Les Houches.
Camping in Les Houches / Hotel in les Houches
There are many places where you can start the TMB based on where you are staying. Generally, it is behind the Bellevue cable car or Le Prarion cable car station. First you need to find a sign that says TMB followed by each time one of those destinations: Col de Voza – Bionnassay – Champel – Tresse – Les Contamines-Montjoie
Statistic of the day
- Total distance: 15.6km
- Elevation gain: +1110m
- Elevation Loss: -978m
- Highest elevation: 1671m
- Lowest elevation: 1006m
At night, stay at camping or gite le Pontet
Located 40min (3-4km) after Les Contamines. Luckily, you can take the free shuttle from Les Contamines that will drop you off in front of the camping area.
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity at the shower area, sinks, café/bar, covered and open area for cooking.
- Online: 4G coverage of the area
- Cost: 17€ for two with our tent.
Variant 1: Bivouac Nant Borrant
If you continue along the TMB trail for another 1h or so, you will arrive in the shelter of Nant Borrant. There you can stay overnight. Next to it, you will find a wild camping area marked “Bivouac” where you can camp for free.
- Service: Dry toilets, drinkable water at the shelter, meals available at the shelter.
Variant 2: Refuge de la Balme
Continue for an additional 1h to get to the Refuge de la Balme. Right under it, you will find a wild camping area marked “Bivouac” where you can camp for free. So, you also have the option here of camping or staying in a shelter.
- Service: Public toilets, drinkable water, sinks, meals available at the shelter
Day 2: Les Contamines - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
Les Contamines-Montjoie – Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge – Nant Borrant – La Blame – Col du Bonhomme – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
Follow the standard route until the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. There you will spend the night in order to take the Col des Fours variant of the TMB.
Statistics of the day
- Total distance: 13.6km
- Elevation gain: +1470m
- Elevation Loss: -187m
- Highest elevation: 1482m
- Lowest elevation: 1006m
At night stay in the wild camping area near the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme.
- Service: Dry Toilets, hot showers for 3€, electricity in the shelter kitchen, sinks, café/bar, covered and open area for cooking, kitchen available for free at the shelter, drinkable water.
- Online: 3G coverage of the area
- Cost: Free, 3€ for the shower.
Variant 1: Les Chapieux
Give up on the Col des Fours and keep on until Les Chapieux located some 5-6km further and some 900m lower. This will allow you to follow the original TMB route. Your next day will be Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta.
Stay in the wild camping area near the tourist office.
- Service: Toilet and sink in the tourist office
Or stay in the Auberge refuge de la Nova.
From there the next morning, you could take the bus to refuge des Mottets and save up to 2h walking. Be aware that the bus only runs in the peak season of July and August.
Day 3: Col de la Croix du Bonhomme - Rifugio Elisabetta
Col des Fours – Tête Nord – La Ville des Glaciers – Mottets – Col de la Serigne – la Casermetta – Rifugio Elisabetta
Firstly, walk back behind the refuge to reach the beginning of the variant route. Secondly, hike until you arrive on at the place mark with “Col des Fours” from there you will see a higher summit. That is our next destination Tête Nord des Fours located at 2756m. Once up there, admire one of the wildest landscapes of the TMB before hiking down to Col des Fours. If you are hiking in June, the trail down will possibly be covered with snow.
Thirdly, once all the way down the valley. Join Ville des Glacier to cross the bridge and get back on the official TMB route. Then, walk past the Refuge des Mottets to hike the Col de la Seigne. There you will enter Italy and trail down to Rifugio Elisabetta for the night.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 17km
- Elevation gain: +1214m
- Elevation Loss: -1454m
- Highest elevation: 2727m
- Lowest elevation: 1777m
- Service: Toilets, hot showers for 2€, electricity in the common area, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water
- Online: No coverage of the area
- Cost: 48€ per person in dormitory half-board, 62€ per person in double room half board, 2€ for shower. Cash Only.
Variant 1: Stay in Refuge des Mottets
You are looking to get over two great mountains here:
- Col de la Croix du bonhomme (2412m) to Tête Nords des fours (2756) to La Ville des Glaciers (1700m)
- Refuge des Mottets (1864m) to Col de Seigne (2516m) to Rifugio Elisabetta (2195m)
With over 996m ascent and 1377m descent, it can be a long day. You could cut it in half it you stay in Refuge des Mottets
Variant 2: Stay in Cabane du Combal
Hike one more hour down the valley after Rifugio Elisabetta to reach Cabane du Combal.
- Service: Toilets, hot shower, electricity, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water
- Online: No coverage of the area
Variant 3 : Camping Val Veny
Trail for another 2h after the Cabane du Combal. (you need to leave the TMB route here, cross the bridge before the Cabane du Combal and keep walking in the valley). During the high season in July/August, a bus is available along the way.
Val Veny has 3 campgrounds located one next to another:
- Camping Hobo or booking.com Camping Hobo for a unique experience
- Camping Aiguille Noire.
- Camping Monte-Bianco La Sorgente
- Service: Toilets, hot shower, electricity, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water.
- Online: 3G Network
On the next day, you can either take the bus or walk back to Lac Combal. And read our day 4 guide or keep your way to Courmayeur directly, but you will be skipping a beautiful TMB stage.
Day 4: Rifugio Elisabetta – Courmayeur
Once more, follow the traditional route of the TMB but leave it to see the Cabane du Combal and the Miage Lac/Glacier. Once done reach back the traditional route all the way to Courmayeur. Be aware that if you are hiking in Mid-July or August, you can cut though the downhill to Courmayeur by using the cable car. This will save you some 1h30 of hike.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 17km
- Elevation gain: +731m
- Elevation Loss: -1708m
- Highest elevation: 12424m
- Lowest elevation: 1177m
Stay at Hotel Stella Del Nord located a bit before Courmayeur
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity the room, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water, free sparkling and mineral water, free tea and biscuit, breakfast.
- Online: 4G coverage and WIFI
- Cost: 80€ + 2€ staying fees
Variant 1: Camping Grande Jorasses
When you arrive in Courmayeur, you will pass the bus station. From there take the free shuttle 924 toward Val Ferret to Camping Grande Jorasses
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, café/bar, pizzeria, drinkable water.
- Online: 4G coverage
Day 5: Courmayeur -- Rifugio Bonatti
Courmayeur – Rifugio Bertone – Rifugio Bonatti
This will be one of the shortest day of the TMB. Start going up all the way to Rifugio Bertone (2h). Keep following the official trail until Rifugio Bonatti. We made it by 1:35pm there, after around 5h hiking. This part was super scenic once past Bertone. It is in fact one of the best on the TMB.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 11.9km
- Elevation gain: +1373m
- Elevation Loss: -533m
- Highest elevation: 21171m
- Lowest elevation: 1205m
Stay at Rifugio Bonatti
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity in the room, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water, breakfast.
- Online: 4G coverage
- Cost: 160€ (2-4 beds Room) Half board
Here is our complete story on the stage 5
Variant 1: Camping
If you want to camp on this stage, you will have to get down in the Val ferret Valley. There you can find a few camping such as Camping Tronchey or Camping Grandes Jorasses. During high season there are buses running from down to valley to the camping.
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, café/bar, pizzeria, drinkable water.
- Online: 4G coverage
Variant 2: Stage 6
As this was quite a short day, you maye want to keep going further. That’s possible, you could go until Chalet Val Ferret or even make it to Rifugio Elena which is just before the border.
Rifugio Elena add 7.17km for +500 -478m, so it is quite possible.
Also, you could even make it all the way to the end of STage 6. This will now make this a really long day as you will be adding the stastistic of stage 6:
- Total distance: 19.3km
- Elevation gain: +1133m
- Elevation Loss: -1557m
- Highest elevation: 2538m
- Lowest elevation: 1600m
And at night, you will be staying at one of the options of next stage.
Day 6: Rifugio Bonatti - La Fouly
This stage will also be super scenic. Waking up in Bonatti with a view on the Mont Blanc is priceless. Plus, the first part of the hike toward the border is one pretty walk. You will go all the way to down to Chalet Val Ferret and then start back up to Rifugio Elena. From there, you will have to pass the Grand Col Ferret where the border with Switzerland is. And so will start the Swiss part of the TMB. From Grand Col Ferret, walk down to the Valley of Ferret, and until La Fouly.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 19.3km
- Elevation gain: +1133m
- Elevation Loss: -1557m
- Highest elevation: 2538m
- Lowest elevation: 1600m
Stay at Camping des Glaciers
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, restaurants, drinkable water, small shop.
- Online: 4G coverage and WIFI
- Cost: 27€
Variant 1: Hotel
If you prefer to stay in an hotel or a mountain hut, there are a few options as you are in La Fouly:
And even a few more options a bit before la Fouly.
Day 7: La Fouly - Champex
La Fouly – Saleinaz – Champex
To be honest, the Switzerland part is not the prettiest and is mostly within forests. You are the furthest from Mont Blanc and will now start looping the mountains to get back on the other side.
Through this day, you will pass by a cute little Swiss valley with small villages which is quite nice. Then it will be all the way up through the forest before going right back down to Champex-Lac
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 15.9km
- Elevation gain: +1203m
- Elevation Loss: -1330m
- Highest elevation: 16071m
- Lowest elevation: 1051m
Stay at Camping Les Rocailles
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, restaurants, drinkable water, small shop.
- Online: 4G coverage and WIFI
- Cost: 35.70€
Variant 1: Hotel
If you prefer to stay in an hotel or a mountain hut, there are a few options as you are in Champex:
- Pension en Plein Air
- Auberge Gîte “Bon Abri”
- La Grange – Bed & Breakfast
Variant 2: Col d’Arpette
If the weather is nice and sunny, you would want to use the Fenêtre d’Arpette. That was our plan, but it was rainy this day. So, we couldn’t take it. For that, walk pass Champex-lac, all the way to Hotel Relais d’Arpette where you can also camp (1.5km after the camping in Champex-Lac)
Day 8: Champex - Le Peuty
Champex – Plan de l’Au – Bovine – Col de Forclaz – Trient – Le Peuty
This was a really dark way for us, with a non-stop rain which didn’t make this stage enjoyable. From Champex, follow the trail all the way to Trient and then la Peuty. First it starts with a walk in the valley. Then it is mostly a steep way up through the forest. Once on the top, there a small flat part before going all the way back down.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 17.1km
- Elevation gain: +1562m
- Elevation Loss: -1372m
- Highest elevation: 2053m
- Lowest elevation: 1282m
Stay at Camping Le Peuty (one of the most basic camping on the TMB)
- Service: Toilets (without toilet paper), “showers”, electricity (1x), sinks, restaurants, drinkable water.
- Online: 4G coverage
- Cost: 0€
Variant 1: Camping/Hotel de la Forclaz
If you want a more comfortable option, you can also camp at Hotel de la Forclaz but it will then make your next day longer as you will have to then walk down to la Peuty the next morning.
Variant 2: Hotel
And if you want the best comfort, then you can stay in Trient:
Day 9: Le Peuty - Tre-le-champ
Le Peuty – Col de Balme – Aiguillette des Posettes – Tre-le-champ
Today, we will walk away from Switzerland and enter France once more. From there, it will become super scenic until the end with stunning view of Mont Blanc all the way.
Start the day by walking all the way to Col de Balme where you will find a mountain hut, and which is a great place for a break. From there follow the trail to Posettes which is a small down and up. And from there, simply trek all the way down to Tre-le-champs
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 13.6km
- Elevation gain: +1231 m
- Elevation Loss: -1116m
- Highest elevation: 2208m
- Lowest elevation: 1283m
Stay at Auberge de la Boerne
- Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, restaurants, drinkable water.
- Online: 4G coverage (quite poor at the camping spot, great on the road) and WIFI.
- Cost: 16€
If you prefer to stay in the mountains hut, the auberge is also providing regular bed, dormitory or even tents.
Day 10: Tre-le-champ - La Flégère
Tre-le-champ – Lac de Cheresys – Lac Blanc – La Flégère
Once again, it will super scenic and today is the day of the ladders! A unique moment of the TMB. Start going up toward La Flégère, after a short while, the trail will stop, and ladders will be there to allow you to keep on. Don’t worry, it is made for everybody. We saw older people as well as kid using them. Once at the intersection, you can either go straight to la Flégère, but we would recommend going to Lac Blanc and Lac via Lac de Cheresys which are super scenic and then to la Flégère. It will not add too much as this is quite a short day.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 8.13km
- Elevation gain: +1166 m
- Elevation Loss: -685m
- Highest elevation: 2351m
- Lowest elevation: 1398m
Stay at Refuge de La Flégère
- Service: Toilets, restaurants
- Online: 4G coverage (quite poor at the camping spot, great on the road) and WIFI.
- Cost: 0€
Note: If you are having dinner with them, you can access hot showers for 2€. If you are having a drink by them, you can have electricity and drinkable water
If you prefer to stay in the mountains hut, the refuge is also providing rooms and dormitory.
Day 11: La Flégère - Les Houches
La Flégère – PlanPraz- Brévent – Col de Brévent – Les Houches
Last stage of the TMB, and it will also be stunning. Start with a nice and quite flat route to PlanPraz. From there, hike to Brévent and then Col de Brévent (some more ladders to use). Once there you will have amazing views and will then start the route all the way down to Les Houches.
Statistics of the day:
- Total distance: 18km
- Elevation gain: +1270 m
- Elevation Loss: -2145m
- Highest elevation: 2480m
- Lowest elevation: 978m
Stay at Camping Bellevue
- Service: Toilets, sinks, hot showers, electricity, drinkable water
- Online: 4G coverage.
- Cost: 16€
But if you prefer something more cosy, you are now in the valley, so you can stay anywhere in Les Houches, Chamonix and so… There are regular buses to take to reach your accommodation.
Cost
Without taking into account the transportation nor the food (only half board when mandatory in Italy) and if you follow the same route we did, you will be spending for 2:
- Camping le Pontet: 17€
- Shower in Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme : 6€
- Rifugio Elisabetta: 128€
- Hotel Stella del Nord: 82€
- Rifugio Bonatti: 160€
- Camping des Glaciers: 27€
- Camping des Rocailles: 35.70€
- Camping le Peuty: 0€
- Auberge de la Boerne: 16€
- La Flégère: 0€
- Camping Bellevue: 16€
To sum up, the total cost for 2 will be 487.7€.
Get our full map
Get our complete map of the TMB for yourself to use online, offline with all trails, routes, water points, camping spots, refuges and so on….
