Sainte Marie de la Mer : The heart of the French Camargue

Introduction

Sainte Marie de la Mer was one of the highlights of our trip through the south of France. We heard about it from my mother, who would love to visit it. After spending time in Arles, we decided to take the scenic route through the Camargue National Park before reaching the town of Sainte Marie de la Mer.

The drive itself was an experience — passing wild white horses grazing near the road, stretches of shimmering rice paddies, and the occasional flock of flamingos in the distance.

We even crossed the Petit Rhône on the Bac Sauvage, a small ferry that shuttles cars across the river — such a simple thing, but honestly one of the coolest moments of the day. By the time we arrived in Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer, the mix of sea air, quiet streets, and the wild landscape around us made it feel like we had entered a completely different side of Provence.

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Why visit?

Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer feels like stepping into another world. It’s the heart of the Camargue, where the rhythm of life is slower, and the landscapes are wild and untouched. The town itself is charming, with narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and a relaxed coastal vibe that makes you want to slow down.

It’s also a cultural hub – home to the famous Romani pilgrimage every May – and surrounded by the iconic scenery that makes the Camargue so special: pink flamingos wading in salt lagoons, white horses grazing in the marshes, and endless flatlands stretching to the sea.

Whether you’re coming for the atmosphere, the beaches, or the chance to see this unique region up close, Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer is the perfect base to soak in the magic of the Camargue.

How to get there

Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer is easy enough to reach, though it feels a world away once you’re there.

If you’re driving, it’s about 35 minutes from Arles and just under 1h30 from Montpellier, following scenic roads that cut through the Camargue’s wetlands and rice paddies. Along the way, you’ll likely spot the region’s famous white horses, black bulls, and pink flamingos.

If you don’t have a car, there are regional buses from Arles that run a few times a day, but having your own vehicle makes it much easier to explore the surrounding Camargue.

A fun alternative is to cross the Petit Rhône river on the “Bac Sauvage” ferry — a free, tiny, old-school ferry that shuttles cars and bikes back and forth. It’s a short ride but adds a real sense of adventure to the trip.

We recommend to rent a car through Discover Cars with free cancellation. Book your rental car here.

When to visit

The best time to visit Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer and the Camargue really depends on what you want to see and do, but here’s a seasonal breakdown to help:

• Spring (March to May): Mild and pleasant, with temperatures around 15–22°C (59–72°F). It’s perfect for exploring the Camargue’s landscapes and spotting flamingos before the summer crowds arrive.
• Summer (June to August): Expect hot weather, often 28–34°C (82–93°F), and busy streets, especially in July and August. This is when the town feels most alive, with festivals, music, and a real beach-town energy — but also the most tourists.
• Autumn (September to November): A sweet spot. The weather stays warm (20–28°C / 68–82°F) but the crowds thin out. The landscapes turn golden, and it’s a calmer, more authentic experience.
• Winter (December to February): Quiet and much cooler, with temperatures around 8–14°C (46–57°F). Some shops and restaurants close for the season, but the wild beauty of the Camargue makes it worthwhile for those seeking solitude.

Tip: Late spring and early autumn are the best times if you want warm weather, fewer crowds, and the chance to enjoy the nature around Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer without the summer rush.

We usually travel with Airalo eSIMs, but when we need unlimited data for work, we go with Holafly.

How to Visit

Exploring Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer and the Camargue is best done slowly, taking time to enjoy both the town and the surrounding nature.

Start by driving through the Camargue from Arles — the journey is part of the experience. You can find official maps of the recommended scenic routes online, which guide you past salt flats, rice paddies, and open fields.

While driving, keep your eyes peeled for the famous white Camargue horses, pink flamingos, and even the dark bulls that roam the wetlands.

One thing you shouldn’t miss along the way is the Bac du Sauvage. It’s just a tiny ferry that shuttles cars across the Petit Rhône in under two minutes, but we personally loved it —something is charming about how simple and old‑school it feels.

From there, continue to Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer. Wander the pedestrian streets, browse the little shops, and take the time to climb the Notre‑Dame‑de‑la‑Mer church — the rooftop view over the town and the sea is worth it.

When you’re done, grab a table at one of the many small restaurants in town for lunch; most serve fresh seafood and local dishes that fit perfectly with the seaside vibe.

If you’re feeling adventurous, book a horseback ride or a 4×4 safari tour — they’re some of the best ways to get closer to the wildlife without disturbing it.

End your visit with some time at the beach. Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer has long stretches of sand where you can walk, relax, or simply sit and watch the waves roll in before heading back.

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Tickets & Opening Hours

There’s no fee to simply wander around Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer, enjoy the beaches, or drive through the Camargue, but a few things do come with a small cost. Climbing the rooftop of Notre‑Dame‑de‑la‑Mer church is just a few euros and gives you an incredible view over the town and the sea. If you plan to book a horseback ride or 4×4 safari tour, expect to pay around €30–€60 for shorter tours.

Parking in Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer is mostly paid. We used Parking des Arènes, which is central and easy to access. Prices were around €2 for 1 hour, €4 for 4 hours, and €8 for the day – worth it for being able to leave the car and explore without stress.

Most restaurants and shops stay open daily, though in low season some close mid‑week. The church is open all day, but the rooftop tends to close earlier in the evening, so plan to go up earlier in the day to be safe.

There is also a little tourist train that costs 10€

Tip: Don’t forget to bring a good camera, such as the SONY A7 — it makes all the difference for capturing those unforgettable moments.

Is it Worth It?

Absolutely — Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer and the Camargue are one of those places that feel completely different from the rest of Provence. Between the salt flats, grazing white horses, pink flamingos, and a town that feels like a mix of fishing village and pilgrimage site, it’s an experience you don’t really get anywhere else in France.

We loved the slow pace, the feeling of being on the edge of land and sea, and the fact that you can see so much in just a day: drive scenic roads, take the Bac Sauvage ferry, climb the church for rooftop views, then end with your feet in the sand.

If you enjoy nature, a bit of culture, and that slightly wild feeling of being somewhere remote, it’s absolutely worth the detour.

Travel Tips

• Start early. The Camargue feels magical in the morning when the roads are quiet, the light is soft, and the wildlife is most active.
• Pack for all conditions. Even in summer, mornings can be breezy and afternoons scorching, so bring layers, sunscreen, and a hat.
• Don’t forget binoculars. They’re perfect for spotting flamingos and birds without getting too close.
• Carry cash. Some smaller cafés, the Bac Sauvage ferry, and even a few parking machines only take coins.
• Stay on the paths. When you stop to take photos of horses or flamingos, keep your distance and avoid stepping onto private farmland.
• Plan for a late lunch. Many restaurants in Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer are touristy; ask locals or check side streets for quieter, more authentic spots.
• If you have time, stay overnight. The Camargue feels totally different at dusk, when the light turns golden and the day‑trippers are gone.

Where to stay

If you want to spend the night in the Camargue area, Arles is the best base. It’s just a short drive from Sainte‑Marie‑de‑la‑Mer and offers way more choice when it comes to hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants. Plus, you’ll have the bonus of exploring Arles’ Roman ruins and lively old town in the evenings, which makes the stay even more rewarding.

(€) Le Mas d’Isnard – A peaceful countryside stay just outside Arles, perfect if you’re looking for space, quiet mornings, and a more local feel.

(€€) Maison de charme d’Arles – A cozy guesthouse in the old town with lots of character, ideal for wandering the cobbled streets straight from your door.

(€€€) Jules César Hotel & Spa Arles – MGallery Collection – A luxury boutique hotel with a spa, right in the city center. A great choice if you want to treat yourself after long days of exploring.

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