Introduction: TMB Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
Day 5 of the TMB, today we will follow the original TMB route and complete the official stage 5 from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti.
This is one of the most scenic day of the Tour du Mont Blanc. In fact, the trail from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti, once in the mountain is offering a crazy landscape toward the Mont blanc and all surrounding summits.
Table of Contents
Mapping the day
TMB Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
Leaving Dolonne
We had stayed in Dolonne, which is the town on the other side of the river of Courmayeur.
We woke up around 6am and had breakfast. Once ready, we left at approx. 6:30am. We passed Courmayeur and then headed up to the end of town to reach the beginning of the trail.
Courmayeur to Rifugio Bertone
The first part of the train is most probably the less fun of the day. It goes up for about 2h in the forest. The trail offers from time to time an incredible view toward the valley but then quickly get back in the woods.
Once up, we first saw the Rifugio Bertone. There we wanted to resupply a bit of water but unfortunately the 2 wells were not not working, so we kept on.
Rifugio Bertone to Rifugio Bonatti
Now the scenic route starts. We followed the official trail all the way till Rifugio Bonatti. The trail is easy to follow and does not offer much more difficulties.
Though this part is more crowded, but it is to be expected as it is the most beautiful. A few up/down later, we arrived at 1:35pm at Bonatti.
Here the picture talks more than words.
We were lucky and had booked a double room left there one week earlier. 150 USD for 2, half-board.
Check-in there is at 4pm. So, we had plenty of time to way. But there is not better place than in front of the Rifugio Bonatti. When we arrived, it was really crowded but quickly people ended up leaving.
After checking-in, we first took shower. Even though this is one really great mountain hut, the shower is disappointing. The shower itself is great and spacious, and even has soap. But you need to get a coin to get the hot water. You are not limited in time but in quantity of water. But even being careful, it lasted for top 3min which is less than other refuge.
The room we had was not toward the amazing view but was much more spacious. We truly had lots of space and enjoyed doing Yoga in there. With the double room is included a blanket and even a liner. So, you do not need to use you own gear.
There is one 220V plug in the room to charge electronic and a big rack to store your stuff, plus a little desk.
Dinner was yummy, served in the main room, and with a vegetarian option. First a small salad, followed by the main dish (mushroom, polenta with cheese, potatoes, and bread. Plus, meats if wanted). Here you can get a refill if it is not enough. To finish the dinner, we also got a slice of cake.
Breakfast was simpler but OK. IT was coffee (instant) or tea. Bread (integral or white), jams, cereals, and biscuits.
“There are no shortcuts to any place worth going.” – Beverly Sills
