TMB Stage 5: Guide from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Introduction

Welcome to Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) adventure! Today, we’ll be following the official TMB route, completing Stage 5 from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti.

This day is undoubtedly one of the most scenic on the entire trail. As we leave Courmayeur, the path leads us high into the mountains, offering breathtaking views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. The landscapes are nothing short of spectacular, providing stunning panoramas at every turn.

Hiking this section in late June was perfect—while the trail was alive with vibrant summer blooms, the weather was also ideal for tackling this iconic leg of the journey.

Stage 5 Hiking Stats:

• Distance: 11,9 km
• Highest point: 2,117m
• Lowest point: 1,205m
• Elevation gain: 1,373m
• Elevation loss: -553m

Read: The Ultimate 11-Day Tour du Mont Blanc Hiking Guide

TMB Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Leaving Dolonne

We stayed in Dolonne, a charming town just across the river from Courmayeur. (If you wonder why our accommodation isn’t the same as at the end of the Stage 4, it is because, we had to stop the TMB after stage 4 because we overpacked and my knee was becoming too painful. So we headed back home and continue a few months later where we stopped).

Our day began early, around 6 am, and after a quick breakfast, we were ready to start the hike. By 6:30 am, we left Dolonne, passed through Courmayeur, and made our way to the edge of town, where the trailhead awaited us.

Check our Google Map of the Tour du Mont Blanc

Courmayeur to Rifugio Bertone

The first part of the trail is probably the least exciting of the day, as it steadily ascends for about 2 hours through the forest.

While the trail occasionally offers stunning views of the valley, it quickly returns to the trees, making it feel somewhat repetitive.

As we reached the top, we came across Rifugio Bertone. We had hoped to replenish our water here, but unfortunately, both wells were not working, so we decided to continue on without resupplying.

Tip: Always travel with a filtered water bottle — it saves money, reduces plastic waste, and keeps you hydrated wherever you go.

Rifugio Bertone to Rifugio Bonatti

Now, the scenic part of the journey begins. We followed the official trail all the way to Rifugio Bonatti. The path is easy to follow and doesn’t present any significant difficulties.

Although this section is a bit more crowded, it’s understandable given that it’s the most picturesque part of the hike. After a few ups and downs, we finally arrived at Rifugio Bonatti at 1:35 pm.

At this point, the views speak louder than words—simply breathtaking.

Tip: We use Black Diamond walking poles for Men and Women — sturdy, lightweight, and perfect for both easy trails and tougher hikes.

Rifugio Bonatti

We were lucky to have booked one of the last double rooms at Rifugio Bonatti a week earlier, for 150 USD for two people, including half-board. This is one of the best mountain huts we have ever stayed at, especially during our TMB.

Check-in is at 4 pm, so we had plenty of time to relax and enjoy the surroundings. Upon arrival, the refuge was crowded, but as time went on, most people left, giving us some peace. There’s no better place to wait than in front of Rifugio Bonatti, where the views are truly incredible.

After checking in, we took a refreshing shower. While the shower itself is spacious and even includes soap, the hot water is regulated by a coin-operated system, which limits the amount of water you can use. Despite being careful, our hot water lasted no more than three minutes, which was a bit disappointing compared to other refuges.

Our room wasn’t facing the amazing views but was much more spacious, giving us plenty of room to stretch out and even do some yoga. The double room included a blanket and liner, so we didn’t need to bring our own sleeping gear.

There was a 220V plug for charging electronics, a large rack to store our things, and a small desk for convenience.

Dinner was delicious, served in the main dining area with a vegetarian option. We started with a small salad, followed by the main dish of mushrooms, polenta with cheese, potatoes, and bread. Meats were available as an additional option, and we could get a refill if needed. For dessert, we enjoyed a slice of cake.

Breakfast was simple but sufficient. It included instant coffee or tea, bread (both whole grain and white), jams, cereals, and biscuits.

Check our Google Map of the Tour du Mont Blanc

Rifugio Bonatti – Other rooms

We also took some photos of the other rooms so you can get an idea of what they look like. These provide a good overview if you’re curious about different accommodation options at Rifugio Bonatti.

Tip: We use Black Diamond walking poles for Men and Women — sturdy, lightweight, and perfect for both easy trails and tougher hikes.