Introduction

Welcome back to our Tour du Mont Blanc series, where we take you step by step through one of the most iconic long-distance trails in the world. In this series, we’re sharing our day-by-day journey, filled with unforgettable landscapes, rewarding challenges, and the beauty of the Alps.

This post covers Day 2, where we hiked the official TMB Stage 2 route from Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, where we stayed overnight. Unlike the traditional route that continues to Chapieux, we chose to spend the night at Croix du Bonhomme to take advantage of the TMB alternative route the next day.

We took on this stage at the end of June, a wonderful time of year when the trail comes alive with summer blooms and the weather is perfect for hiking.

TMB Stage 2 Hiking Tips and At a Glance

Stage 2 Hiking Stats: (Official/Variante)

• Distance: 18,1 km/13,6km
• Highest point: 2,482m
• Lowest point: 1,139m
• Elevation gain: 1,464m
• Elevation loss: -1,055m/-185m

If you are looking for another stage or a complete guide, you may want to check:

• TMB Stage 1: Guide from Les Houches to Les Contamines
• TMB Stage 3: Guide from Croix du bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta
• TMB Stage 4: Guide from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
• TMB Stage 5: Guide from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
• TMB Stage 6: Guide from Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
• TMB Stage 7: Guide from La Fouly to Champex
• TMB Stage 8: Guide from Champex to Trient
• TMB Stage 9: Guide from Trient to Tre-le-champs
• TMB Stage 10: Guide from Tre-le-champs to Flégère
• TMB Stage 11: Guide from La Flégère to Les Houches
• Half TMB Guide: Hike the Best of Tour du Mont Blanc
• Hiking Tour du Mont Blanc: The Complete 11-Day Guide
• 15 Proven ways to shortcut the TMB
• 10 Easy Ways to Stop the TMB
• 12 best Tour du Mont Blanc tips
• The Best Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List

TMB Stage 2: Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Les Contamines to Refuge Nant Borrant

Our day began early, waking up around 6:30 a.m. to pack our tent, which was still damp from the morning dew. After a quick breakfast and getting everything ready, we set off around 7:50 a.m. from Camping Le Pontet, exiting through the back gate to rejoin the trail.

The hike started with an uphill climb through a beautiful forest, offering us a peaceful start to the day. Along the way, we were treated to the sight of a beautiful waterfall. As we continued, the trail led us out of the forest and into a picturesque hamlet, where the stunning alpine scenery left us in awe.

Refuge Nant Borrant to Refuge de la Balme

We continued along the trail, which eventually opened up into a breathtaking valley, with Refuge de la Balme awaiting us at the far end. In the middle of the valley, we came across a small bench, a water well, and a rubbish bin—perfect for a brief pause.

This section of the trail was noticeably busier, as it’s a popular route for day hikers. Despite the increased activity, we took some time to relax on the bench, soaking in the tranquil scenery and watching cows grazing peacefully across the fields.

From there, we pressed on toward the refuge, which required a bit of an uphill effort. We reached Refuge de la Balme around 10:30 a.m. and couldn’t resist taking another well-deserved break to admire the stunning view of the valley we had just passed through.

Near the refuge, we found several useful amenities, including an authorized wild camping area, public toilets, a drinkable water well, and a comfortable sitting area—making it an ideal spot for hikers to recharge before continuing their journey.

Refuge de la Balme to Col du Bonhomme

By 10:50 am, we left for Col du Bonhomme. Uphill trail as we are at 1703m and need to reach the col that stands at 2329m. The trail was beautiful and going slowly up. Some part of it was still covered in snow but it was not hard to pass over.

We made it by the Col du Bonhomme around 2:05pm. The view was breath-taking, but it was really windy.

Col du Bonhomme to Col de la croix du Bonhomme

By 10:50 a.m., we set off toward Col du Bonhomme, beginning the uphill climb from an altitude of 1,703 meters to reach the col at 2,329 meters.

The trail was stunning, gradually winding upward through picturesque alpine landscapes. While some sections were still blanketed in snow, they were manageable to cross without much difficulty, adding a touch of adventure to the hike.

We reached Col du Bonhomme around 2:05 p.m., greeted by breathtaking panoramic views. However, the strong winds at the summit reminded us of the raw and untamed beauty of the mountains.

Refuge Col de la croix du Bonhomme

It’s possible to wild camp on the left side, downhill from the refuge. The spot can be easy to miss, as it’s surrounded by rocky walls that blend into the terrain.

Since we weren’t too keen on the pre-made campsites already there, we chose our own spot, pitched our tent, and built a small wall around it as a precaution against the wind. Fortunately, the wind never picked up that day, so our efforts turned out to be unnecessary—but better safe than sorry!

After setting up camp, we took turns heading to the refuge to enjoy a hot shower (€3 for 4 minutes of blissful warmth). Later, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved 50cl beer, which cost €8—a small luxury after a long day of hiking.

The refuge offers several amenities, including dry toilets located in front of the building for everyone to use, drinkable water available both outside and inside, and even a small kitchen with gas that hikers can use for free.

In the evening, Tina held her yoga class, set against the backdrop of an incredible mountain view, while I relaxed in the tent and soaked in the peaceful atmosphere.