Half TMB Guide: Hike the Best of Tour du Mont Blanc

Introduction

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a 170km trail that goes through France, Italy, and Switzerland. It brings you all around the highest mountain in Europe. It can be completed in 5 to 11 days or even more. But a half TMB alternative is possible. So, if you are unsure you can do all the 11 stages or want to try it out, this half TMB guide is for you.

TMB has an official route but also has many variants. Along your way, you will need to choose if you want to follow the original trail or use a variant that may be even better! To help you organize your half TMB, we put up this half TMB Guide.

Tent pitched on an alpine ridge with breathtaking mountain views and snow-dusted peaks in the background. — Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Read: The Ultimate 11-Day Tour du Mont Blanc Hiking Guide: Your Complete Adventure

About the Half TMB

Introduction

Le Tour du Mont Blanc is one of the most spectacular trails in the world. The trail consists of 11 stages and over 10 variants. Along the way hikers can chose which option they prefer. Its route passes through beautiful valleys, adorable hamlets, charming landscapes, rugged mountains, crystal clear rivers and white snow.

But 11 stages are not for everyone, and we know what we are talking about, as we had to stop our TMB due to overweight backpacks and knee pain. But that’s why we are confident that the Half TMB is also a cool thing to do to test yourself.

Couple standing on a mountain road with panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and valleys. — Trail from Col de Voza to Fioux and Bionnassay

Tip: Always travel with a filtered water bottle — it saves money, reduces plastic waste, and keeps you hydrated wherever you go.

The official stages

Likewise, you can hike the TMB can both clockwise and anti-clockwise. However, hikers traditionally do it anti-clockwise and start off in Les Houches (France). Just a few people chose the clockwise option and would start in Champex (Switzerland). For the Half TMB we will follow the first 4 stages.

Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines
Stage 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta
Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
Stage 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex
Stage 8: Champex to Col de la Forclaz/Trient
Stage 9: Trient/Col de la Forclaz to Tre-le-Champ
Stage 10: Tre-le-Champ to Refuge La Flegere
Stage 11: Refuge La Flegere to Les Houches

Posing under the Tour du Mont Blanc start/finish arch in Les Houches. — Tour du Mont Blanc Sign at the Les Houches

Read: Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List

Weather

To be honest, mountain weather is unpredictable, and changeable. Most of the weather apps and news will not be too reliable in advance. To clarify, we hiked it end of June, and all the days were sunny, with only one rainy night. While our weather forecast was different.

Backpacker standing on a ridge making a heart of the mountain scenery with a lake in the distance. — Col du Bonhomme to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Tip: Make sure to pack quality waterproof jackets — one for him and one for her — they’ll make all the difference on rainy days.

Best time to Hike the Half TMB

Officially, the TMB opens from mid-June to Mid-September.

Mid-June is a great time to hike the TMB as the trail will be almost empty. But you will have to deal with snow-covered section on the trail or won’t be able to use the variant you wanted to.
End-June is probably the best time to be on the TMB. Most of the snow is already melted and what’s left is trekkable. Plus, the crowd will not yet be there. And you will not need to organise everything in advance. (That is the time we chose)
Mid-July and August is the busiest time on the trek but also the one where the trail will be fully available.
September will again be less crowded. But the weather will also become colder and with higher chances of rain.

Hiker with a large backpack crossing a forest path near a stone bridge on the way to Refuge de la Balme. — Les Contamines to Refuge de Nant Borrant

Tip: We use Black Diamond walking poles for Men and Women — sturdy, lightweight, and perfect for both easy trails and tougher hikes.

How difficult is the Half TMB

It is a demanding trail, you are looking at long days with breath-taking views. Most importantly, you will ascent to the mountain and descent to the valley. And above all, some days you will walk over 1000m up/down. What can affect the most your trail is your decision about staying in refuge or camping. As a camper, you will have to carry more gears and your backpack will be heavier.

Hiker making their way down a snowy pass with mountain ridges and valleys under a partly cloudy sky. — From Tête nord des Fours to Refuge Mottets

Read: Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List: Essential Hiking Gear for Your Adventure

Food & Water

Firstly, the TMB passes though many villages. So you will be able to buy food regularly and will not need to carry it in your bags. If you do not want to bother you can also eat in shelters along the way. Most of them offer lunch menu. And if you stay overnight, they even offer lunch box.

Secondly, If you are vegetarian, you will be able to also find alternatives. But vegans will have a harder time and will probably have to cook their own meals. Thirdly, you can find water easily along the road, so no need to carry 3L of water with you as there are many wells around. Plus, most of the shelters will refill it for you.

Smiling hiker refilling water at a wooden trough fountain along the trail near Les Contamines. — Final stretch to

The money stuff

In short, in towns most of the places accept credit card but up in the mountains cash will be the only mean of payment. Be sure that you carry enough of it with you. Meanwhile, in Italy and France the currency is EURO. Switzerland uses the Swiss Francs but often accepts euros.

Backpacker hiking on a rocky path overlooking a vast valley with snow-capped mountains. — Cabane du Combal to Vieille Arps Supérieur

Tip: We hike with Osprey backpacks and can’t recommend them enough — the Talon 44 and Tempest 40 are comfortable, durable, and great for any adventure.

Mobile network

Well, on most of the trek you will be able to get a cellular network don’t expect to be all the time online. For example, from Col des Fours to Col Chécrouit, there isn’t any network.

Two hikers celebrating on a mountain summit with snowy peaks and bright blue sky on the TMB Stage 3 Variant from Croix du bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta — Tête nord des Fours

Tip: We use the DJI Action 4 to film our vlogs — compact, durable, and perfect for capturing every adventure.

Wild Camping

Wild Camping is not recommended at all and often prohibited:

In Italy, wild camping is strictly prohibited and you should avoid doing it. The local authorities and people do not joke with it. Italian law says: free camping is forbidden (allowed only above 2.500 m from sunset to dawn)
In Switzerland, it is the same, wild camping is simply and strictly prohibited. And people would denounce you to the authorities.
In France, it is another story. And you can wild camp without too much trouble. As the local law says ‘free camping is allowed only at high altitude between sunset and sunrise’. But without clear altitude.

Tent set up on the grass at Camping Le Pontet surrounded by trees and mountains. — Camping Le Pontet

Tip: We used this MSR tent — super reliable, easy to set up, and held up perfectly in all weather conditions.

The half tmb or half Tour du Mont Blanc

Introduction

The official start of the TMB and the half TMB is in “Les Houches” in France. We started from there and finished in “Courmayeur” in Italy. From there, it is possible to take a bus through the Mont Blanc tunnel and return to “Chamonix” and “Les Houches” in France.

It is possible to do the half TMB in 5 days but you can also add some variants.

Hiker with a large backpack on a rocky path toward col du bonhomme — Refuge de la Balme to Col du Bonhomme

Tip: Always travel with a filtered water bottle — it saves money, reduces plastic waste, and keeps you hydrated wherever you go.

Overview

Day 1: Les Houches – Col de Voza – Bionnassay – Champel – Tresse – Les Contamines-Montjoie
Day 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie – Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge – Nant Borrant – La Balme – Col du Bonhomme – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
Day 3: Col des Fours – Tête Nord – La Ville des Glaciers – Mottets – Col de la Seigne – la Casermetta – Refuge Elisabetta
Day 4: Refuge Elisabetta – Lac Combal – Arp-Vieille supérieure – Lac Chécrouit – Col Chécrouit – Plan Chécrouit – Dolonne – Courmayeur
Day 5: Courmayeur – Chamonix – Return

Hiker crossing a rocky stream with patches of snow and a waterfall flowing down the mountain slope. — From Tête nord des Fours to Refuge Mottets

Get our complete map of the Tour du Mont Blanc for yourself to get all trails, routes, water points, camping spots, refuges, and so on….

Half TMB – Day by Day

Day 1: Les Houches – Les Contamines

To begin the Half TMB, it is possible to arrive in Les Houches in the morning and start hiking the TMB around 11 am. You will have enough time to do it. We left around 5 am by car and arrived around 11 am in Les Houches.

You can park your car in the official parking located behind the cable car station of “Le Prarion”. It is a free parking spot located at “31 Chemin du Verney du Fouilly, 74310 Les Houches”. Once you are there, you will see a sign “TMB parking”. Follow it until you see the end of the road. (do not park near the cable car station)

Parking lot at Les Houches surrounded by greenery with several parked cars on a rainy day. — Parking lot at Les Houches

If you arrive from Chamonix, there are free shuttle buses to Les Houches.

Otherwise, it might be a good idea to consider arriving one day earlier and staying overnight in Les Houches. Either at a Camping in Les Houches or at an Hotel in les Houches

Public bus in Les Houches with McDonald’s advertisement on the back, wooden fences, and misty mountains in the distance. — City Bus in Les Houches

There are many places where you can start the TMB based on where you are staying. Generally, it is behind the Bellevue cable car or Le Prarion cable car station. First, you need to find a sign that says TMB followed by each time one of those destinations: Col de Voza – Bionnassay – Champel – Tresse – Les Contamines-Montjoie

Wooden steps leading uphill past chalets in Les Houches under a cloudy sky. — Trailhead TMB

Statistic of the day

5km
Highest point: 1653m
Lowest 1000m

At night, stay at the camping or gite le Pontet

Located 40 minutes (3-4km) after Les Contamines. Luckily, you can take the free shuttle from Les Contamines which will drop you off in front of the camping area.

Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity at the shower area, sinks, café/bar, covered and open area for cooking.
Online: 4G coverage of the area
Cost: 17€ for two with our tent.

Male hiker raising trekking poles in triumph while walking through alpine meadows with mountain views. — Les Houches to Col de Voza

Read: Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines

Variant 1: Bivouac Nant Borrant

If you continue along the TMB trail for another 1h or so, you will arrive in the shelter of Nant Borrant. There you can stay overnight. Next to it, you will find a wild camping area marked “Bivouac” where you can camp for free.

Service: Dry toilets, drinkable water at the shelter, and meals available at the shelter.

Tip: Make sure to pack quality waterproof jackets — one for him and one for her — they’ll make all the difference on rainy days.

Variant 2: Refuge de la Balme

Continue for an additional 1h to get to the Refuge de la Balme. Right under it, you will find a wild camping area marked “Bivouac” where you can camp for free. So, you also have the option here of camping or staying in a shelter.

Service: Public toilets, drinkable water, sinks, meals available at the shelter

Here are all your accommodation options in Les Houches

Day 2: Les Contamines – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Les Contamines-Montjoie – Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge – Nant Borrant – La Blame – Col du Bonhomme – Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

Follow the standard route until the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. There you will spend the night in order to take the Col des Fours variant of the TMB.

Hiker walking along a wide mountain trail with stunning peaks and clear blue sky on the way to Refuge Nant Borrant during the TMB Stage 2 from Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme — Refuge de Nant Borrant to Refuge de la Balme

Statistics of the day

14km
Highest point: 2443m
Lowest 1000m

At night, stay in the wild camping area near the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme.

Service: Dry Toilets, hot showers for 3€, electricity in the shelter kitchen, sinks, café/bar, covered and open area for cooking, kitchen available for free at the shelter, drinkable water.
Online: 3G coverage of the area
Cost: Free, 3€ for the shower.

Snow-covered mountain pass with hikers crossing and a small wooden shelter on the ridge. — Refuge de la Balme to Col du Bonhomme

Read: Stage 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Variant 1: Les Chapieux

Give up on the Col des Fours and keep on until Les Chapieux located some 5-6km further and some 900m lower. This will allow you to follow the original TMB route. Your next day will be Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta.

Stay in the wild camping area near the tourist office.

Service: Toilet and sink in the tourist office

Or stay in the Auberge refuge de la Nova.

From there, the next morning, you could take the bus to refuge des Mottets and save up to 2h walking. Be aware that the bus only runs in the peak season of July and August.

Tip: We used this MSR tent — super reliable, easy to set up, and held up perfectly in all weather conditions.

Day 3: Col de la Croix du Bonhomme – Rifugio Elisabetta

Col des Fours – Tête Nord – La Ville des Glaciers – Mottets – Col de la Serigne – la Casermetta – Rifugio Elisabetta

Firstly, walk back behind the refuge to reach the beginning of the variant route. Secondly, hike until you arrive on at the place mark with “Col des Fours” from there you will see a higher summit. That is our next destination Tête Nord des Fours located at 2756m. Once up there, admire one of the wildest landscapes of the TMB before hiking down to Col des Fours. If you are hiking in June, the trail down will possibly be covered with snow.

Couple standing arm in arm looking out over alpine valleys and rugged mountain ranges. — Tête nord des Fours

Thirdly, once all the way down the valley. Join Ville des Glacier to cross the bridge and get back on the official TMB route. Then, walk past the Refuge des Mottets to hike the Col de la Seigne. There you will enter Italy and trail down to Rifugio Elisabetta for the night.

Backpacker smiling while leaning on trekking poles along a mountain trail with alpine peaks in the distance. — From Tête nord des Fours to Refuge Mottets

Get our complete map of the Tour du Mont Blanc for yourself to get all trails, routes, water points, camping spots, refuges, and so on….

Statistics of the day:

16km approx.
Highest point: 2756m
Lowest 1700m
Service: Toilets, hot showers for 2€, electricity in the common area, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water
Online: No coverage of the area
Cost: 48€ per person in dormitory half-board, 62€ per person in double room half board, 2€ for shower. Cash Only.

Inside a wooden dorm room with bunk beds where hikers are unpacking their gear. — Rifugio Elisabetta

Read: Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta

Variant 1: Stay in Refuge des Mottets

You are looking to get over two great mountains here:

Col de la Croix du bonhomme (2412m) to Tête Nords des fours (2756) to La Ville des Glaciers (1700m)
Refuge des Mottets (1864m) to Col de Seigne (2516m) to Rifugio Elisabetta (2195m)

With over 996m ascent and 1377m descent, it can be a long day. You could cut it in half it you stay in Refuge des Mottets

Tip: We used this MSR tent — super reliable, easy to set up, and held up perfectly in all weather conditions.

Variant 2: Stay in Cabane du Combal

Hike one more hour down the valley after Rifugio Elisabetta to reach Cabane du Combal.

Service: Toilets, hot shower, electricity, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water
Online: No coverage of the area

Tip: We use the DJI Action 4 to film our vlogs — compact, durable, and perfect for capturing every adventure.

Variant 3 : Camping Val Veny

Trail for another 2h after the Cabane du Combal. (you need to leave the TMB route here, cross the bridge before the Cabane du Combal and keep walking in the valley). During the high season in July/August, a bus is available along the way.

Val Veny has 3 campgrounds located one next to another:

Camping Hobo or Camping Hobo for a unique experience
Camping Aiguille Noire.
Camping Monte-Bianco La Sorgente

Service: Toilets, hot shower, electricity, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water.
Online: 3G Network

On the next day, you can either take the bus or walk back to Lac Combal. And read our day 4 guide or keep your way to Courmayeur directly, but you will be skipping a beautiful TMB stage.

Tip: We never travel without our DJI Mini 3 PRO drone anymore — it’s totally worth having to capture places from a whole new perspective.

Day 4: Rifugio Elisabetta – Courmayeur

Once more, follow the traditional route of the TMB but leave it to see the Cabane du Combal and the Miage Lac/Glacier. Once done reach back the traditional route all the way to Courmayeur. Be aware that if you are hiking in Mid-July or August, you can cut though the downhill to Courmayeur by using the cable car. This will save you some 1h30 of hike.

Backpacker walking toward a chalet with a steep red roof, surrounded by alpine peaks. — From Rifugio Elisabetta to Cabane du Combal

Statistics of the day:

16km approx.
Highest point: 2425
Lowest 1224m

Stay at Hotel Stella Del Nord located a bit before Courmayeur

Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity the room, sinks, café/bar, restaurants, drinkable water, free sparkling and mineral water, free tea and biscuit, breakfast.
Online: 4G coverage and WIFI
Cost: 80€ + 2€ staying fees

Cozy hotel room with a red bedspread decorated with hearts, wooden furniture, and warm lighting. — Hotel Stella Del Nord

Read: Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

Variant 1: Camping Grande Jorasses

When you arrive in Courmayeur, you will pass the bus station. From there take the free shuttle 924 toward Val Ferret to Camping Grande Jorasses

Service: Toilets, hot showers, electricity, sinks, café/bar, pizzeria, drinkable water.
Online: 4G coverage

Tip: We use the DJI Action 4 to film our vlogs — compact, durable, and perfect for capturing every adventure.

Day 5: Return

Depart from Hotel Stella Del Nord, walk down to Courmayeur bus station SAVDA. The ticket office is right behind the station. Get a 15€ ticket to Chamonix (9am, 11am, 12am, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm – There may have more departure in July/August).

The ride takes 45min and will end in Chamonix Bus Sud station. From there you can take the bus 1 to Les Houches.

Two Arriva buses parked at Courmayeur bus station, one showing the destination Chamonix with trees and mountains around. — Two Arriva buses parked at Courmayeur bus station

Get our complete map of the Tour du Mont Blanc for yourself to get all trails, routes, water points, camping spots, refuges, and so on….

Variant 1: Add one more stage

Not enough yet? You could keep hiking the stage 5 of the TMB from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti or even Hotel Chalet Val Ferret. From there you can always take the bus 924 back to Courmayeur.

You have completed half of the Tour du Mont Blanc (or almost). Any further would mean that you will need to hike the complete TMB. For this read our next article on it.

Two hikers with backpacks talking on a grassy plateau with panoramic mountain views. — Rifugio Bertone to Rifugio Bonatti

Read: Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Cost of the half Tour du Mont Blanc

Without taking into account the transportation or the food and if you follow the same route we did, you will be spending for 2 for the half TMB:

Camping le Pontet: 17€
Shower in Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme : 6€
Rifugio Elisabetta : 128€
Hotel Stella del Nord: 82€
Bus: 30€

To sum up, the total cost for 2 will be 263€.

Read: The Ultimate 11-Day Tour du Mont Blanc Hiking Guide: Your Complete Adventure

About the authors

We are Alex and Tina, a French-Serbian couple who met in China back in 2014. We spent three incredible years there before making France our home. Our shared passion for travel has been the heartbeat of our relationship for over 12 years, taking us across 44 countries and counting.

We launched TheDailyPackers in 2019 as a way to document our adventures. In 2026, we reached a major milestone by officially turning our blog into our full-time job. While we are still growing toward financial independence through this platform, every article we write is fueled by our mission to make your voyages easier through in-depth guides, honest advice, and the lessons we’ve learned from our own mistakes.

Our journey has not been without its storms. In 2023, our world changed forever when our first son, Poppy, was stillborn on November 25th. It was, and remains, the hardest chapter of our lives. In 2025, we were blessed with our second little boy, Milo. He has since joined our traveling tribe, and you’ll be seeing him—and the reality of traveling with a little one-on the blog more and more.

We hope to inspire you to explore the world with curiosity and resilience. Thank you for being part of our story.