Introduction

Welcome to Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc adventure! Today, we’ll be following the official route, completing the TMB Stage 5 from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti.

This day is undoubtedly one of the most scenic on the entire trail. As we leave Courmayeur, the path leads us high into the mountains, offering breathtaking views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. The landscapes are nothing short of spectacular, providing stunning panoramas at every turn.

Hiking Stage 5 from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti in late June was perfect; while the trail was alive with vibrant summer blooms, the weather was also ideal for tackling this iconic leg of the journey.

TMB Stage 5 Hiking Tips and At a Glance

TMB Stage 5 Hiking Stats:

• Distance: 11,9 km
• Highest point: 2,117m
• Lowest point: 1,205m
• Elevation gain: 1,373m
• Elevation loss: -553m

If you are looking for another stage or a complete guide, you may want to check:

• TMB Stage 1: Guide from Les Houches to Les Contamines
• TMB Stage 2: Guide from Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme
• TMB Stage 3: Guide from Croix du bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta
• TMB Stage 4: Guide from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
• TMB Stage 6: Guide from Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
• TMB Stage 7: Guide from La Fouly to Champex
• TMB Stage 8: Guide from Champex to Trient
• TMB Stage 9: Guide from Trient to Tre-le-champs
• TMB Stage 10: Guide from Tre-le-champs to Flégère
• TMB Stage 11: Guide from La Flégère to Les Houches
• Half TMB Guide: Hike the Best of Tour du Mont Blanc
• Hiking Tour du Mont Blanc: The Complete 11-Day Guide
• 15 Proven ways to shortcut the TMB
• 10 Easy Ways to Stop the TMB
• 12 best Tour du Mont Blanc tips
• The Best Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List

TMB Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Leaving Dolonne

We stayed in Dolonne, a charming town just across the river from Courmayeur. (If you wonder why our accommodation isn’t the same as at the end of Stage 4, it is because we had to stop the TMB after Stage 4 because we overpacked, and my knee was becoming too painful. So we headed back home and continued a few months later where we stopped.

Our day began early, around 6 am, and after a quick breakfast, we were ready to start the hike. By 6:30 am, we left Dolonne, passed through Courmayeur, and made our way to the edge of town, where the trailhead awaited us.

Courmayeur to Rifugio Bertone

The first part of the trail is probably the least exciting of the day, as it steadily ascends for about 2 hours through the forest.

While the trail occasionally offers stunning views of the valley, it quickly returns to the trees, making it feel somewhat repetitive.

As we reached the top, we came across Rifugio Bertone. We had hoped to replenish our water here, but unfortunately, neither well was working, so we decided to continue on without resupplying.

Rifugio Bertone to Rifugio Bonatti

Now, the scenic part of the journey begins. We followed the official trail all the way to Rifugio Bonatti. The path is easy to follow and presents no significant difficulties.

Although this section is a bit more crowded, it’s understandable given that it’s the most picturesque part of the hike. After a few ups and downs, we finally arrived at Rifugio Bonatti at 1:35 pm.

At this point, the views speak louder than words, simply breathtaking.

Rifugio Bonatti

We were lucky to have booked one of the last double rooms at Rifugio Bonatti a week earlier, for 150 USD for two people, including half-board. This is one of the best mountain huts we have ever stayed at, especially during our TMB.

Check-in is at 4 pm, so we had plenty of time to relax and enjoy the surroundings. Upon arrival, the refuge was crowded, but over time most people left, giving us some peace. There’s no better place to wait than in front of Rifugio Bonatti, where the views are truly incredible.

After checking in, we took a refreshing shower. While the shower itself is spacious and even includes soap, the hot water is regulated by a coin-operated system, which limits how much water you can use. Despite being careful, our hot water lasted no more than three minutes, which was a bit disappointing compared to other refuges.

Our room didn’t face the amazing views but was much more spacious, giving us plenty of space to stretch out and even do some yoga. The double room included a blanket and liner, so we didn’t need to bring our own sleeping gear.

There was a 220V plug for charging electronics, a large rack to store our things, and a small desk for convenience.

Dinner was delicious, served in the main dining area with a vegetarian option. We started with a small salad, followed by the main dish of mushrooms, polenta with cheese, potatoes, and bread. Meats were available as an additional option, and we could get a refill if needed. For dessert, we enjoyed a slice of cake.

Breakfast was simple but sufficient. It included instant coffee or tea, bread (both whole grain and white), jams, cereals, and biscuits.

Rifugio Bonatti – Other rooms

We also took some photos of the other rooms so you can get an idea of what they look like. These provide a good overview if you’re curious about different accommodation options at Rifugio Bonatti.